I first visited Greece when I was 17. I went to all the places I had read about in the Odyssey and The Iliad. It was Easter time, and every one of these magnificent sites was empty.I was the only person in Corynth, Mycenae, Tiryns and Delphi. I almost felt in desperation. Instead, I endedup having the most extraordinary trip, which no one could repeat. I still believe that the gods and goddesses are romping through the fields of Greece, Italy and Turkey.